🧗 Required Climbing Experience

Core Skills

• Solid foundation in both rock and ice climbing.

• Comfort with exposure and technical routes is essential.

Fixed Rope Proficiency

• Competency in ascending and descending on fixed lines.

• Must be efficient at anchor transitions and self-management on vertical terrain.

Technical Terrain

• Includes steep rock (e.g., Yellow Tower) and highly exposed ridgelines.

• Must be comfortable on 60° ice and snow and vertical mixed terrain.

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🏕️ Camp-by-Camp Climb Progression

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🎒 Gear & Packing Overview

Lukla Flight Baggage Allowance

• Checked Duffel: 10 kg (22 lbs)

• Carry-on Daypack: 5 kg (11 lbs)

Porter/Yak Load Limit

• 15 kg (33 lbs) max. Please respect this limit for staff welfare.

You Carry Daily:

• Essentials like water, snacks, extra layers (~5–8 kg).

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🧗‍♂️ Climbing Gear Checklist

Essential Gear (Bring Your Own):

• Harness: Petzl, BD, Arc’teryx

• Helmet: Petzl Sirocco/Meteor, BD Vision/Vapor

• Ice Axe: General mountaineering axe (Petzl Glacier, BD Raven)

• Crampons: Steel with anti-balling plates (Petzl Sarken, Grivel G12)

• Ascender (Jumar): Petzl/BD

• Descender/Belay Device: Reverso, ATC-Guide

• Carabiners: 4–5 locking, 2–3 non-locking

• Slings/Prusiks: 2–3 slings + prusik loops

• Buy Safety-Critical Gear at Home – Counterfeit risk is high in Nepal.

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🥾 Footwear

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👕 Clothing Layers

Upper Body

• Base Layers (x2): Merino or synthetic

• Mid Layers (x2): Fleece or softshell

• Down Jacket: Expedition weight with hood (Rab, TNF)

• Shell Jacket: Waterproof and windproof (Gore-Tex)

Lower Body

• Trekking Pants (x2): Quick-dry

• Base Layer Bottoms (x2): Thermal leggings

• Insulated Pants: Down/synthetic

• Shell Pants: With full-length zips

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🧤 Head & Hand Protection

• Sun Hat + Beanie

• Balaclava / Buff (x2)

• Glacier Glasses (Cat 4) + Ski Goggles

• Gloves:

  • Liner Gloves

  • Mid-weight Insulated Gloves

  • Expedition Mittens (BD Absolute, OR Alti)

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🎒 Bags

• Expedition Duffel (80–100L): Waterproof, durable

• Daypack (35–45L): Osprey, Gregory, Deuter

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💤 Sleeping System

• Sleeping Bag: Rated -20°C / -4°F (down preferred)

• Liner: Silk/fleece

• Rental Available: Good options in Thamel

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🧪 Miscellaneous

• Trekking Poles

• Headlamp + Batteries

• Water Bottles (x2) / Bladder

• Water Purification (SteriPEN/tablets)

• Toiletries + Quick-dry towel

• First Aid Kit + Medications

• Sunscreen (SPF 50+) + Lip Balm

• Camera, Power Bank, Cables

• Documents: Passport, visa, insurance, cash

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⛰️ Acclimatization & Altitude Awareness

Altitude Sickness (AMS) Symptoms

• Mild: Headache, nausea, fatigue

• Severe: Vomiting, confusion, ataxia, cough (HAPE), drowsiness (HACE)

Golden Rules

1. Ascend slowly

2. Stay hydrated (3–4L/day)

3. Eat well (high-carb)

4. No alcohol/sleeping pills

5. Rest if unwell – NEVER ASCEND WITH SYMPTOMS

Medication

• Diamox (Acetazolamide) – Ask your doctor about dosage and side effects.

What to Do If AMS Occurs

• STOP ascending

• REPORT to your guide immediately

• DESCEND if symptoms worsen

• DO NOT IGNORE symptoms

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🚁 Emergency Procedures & Insurance

Helicopter Rescue

• Coordinated by guide via satellite phone

• Requires insurance that covers high-altitude rescue above 6,000m

Mandatory Insurance

• Must include:

  • Trekking & climbing up to 7,000m

  • Medical evacuation

  • Trip cancellation/interruption

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💵 Money, ATMs & Tipping

Cash Needs

• Withdraw in Kathmandu.

• Namche has ATMs but may be unreliable.

Budget: $15–$20/day for:

• Snacks, drinks, Wi-Fi, device charging, showers, souvenirs

Tipping Guidelines

Pool and distribute as a group in Lukla.

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🧘 Cultural Etiquette & Responsible Travel

Respect Local Customs

• Dress modestly

• Remove shoes/hats in homes and monasteries

• Walk clockwise around stupas & mani walls

Environmental Responsibility

• Carry out all non-biodegradable waste

• Avoid bottled water – use purification system

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🧗 Training & Fitness Requirements

Recommended Physical Preparation

• Duration: Start training 3–6 months before

• Focus On:

  • Cardiovascular endurance (hiking, running, cycling)

  • Weighted hikes

  • Strength training (core, legs, back)

  • Practice on steep trails or stair climbs

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📡 Communication Plan

• Base Camp: Satellite phone + internet available

• On-Mountain: Radio communication between camps

• Personal Use:

  • Satellite phone use may incur extra cost

  • Wi-Fi: Everest Link cards available at lodges

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🏢 Company Credentials

• Registered with Nepal Government & Department of Tourism

• Experienced Sherpa Team:

  • UIAGM/IFMGA-certified guides (upon request)

  • Lead guides with multiple Ama Dablam and Everest summits

• Strong safety record and evacuation protocols

🆘 Emergency Protocol & Mandatory Insurance

Your safety is our highest priority. The remote and high-altitude environment of this expedition requires a robust safety protocol and mandatory personal preparation.

✅ Mandatory Insurance

• Every member must have a comprehensive travel insurance policy that:

  • Covers mountaineering up to 7,000 meters

  • Includes helicopter rescue and evacuation

• Proof of insurance must be submitted to our office in Kathmandu before the expedition departs.

• This is a non-negotiable requirement for your safety and the safety of the team.

📡 Communication

• Constant communication between high camps and Base Camp via UHF/VHF radios.

• Base Camp is equipped with a satellite phone for emergencies and coordination with our Kathmandu office.

🧭 Guide Authority

• Your lead guide is a certified, experienced professional trained in high-altitude mountaineering.

• The guide has full authority to:

  • Alter the itinerary

  • Halt an ascent

  • Initiate a descent
    — based on weather conditions, team health, or other safety risks.

🚨 Emergency Procedure

1. Immediate Reporting
   If you feel unwell—especially with symptoms of AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness)—report to your guide immediately.

2. Assessment
   Your guide will assess your condition and determine the best course of action.

3. Action
   Based on severity, actions may include:

   • Taking a rest day

   • Immediate descent to a lower altitude (most effective AMS treatment)

4. Evacuation
   In a life-threatening emergency, your guide will:

   • Coordinate a helicopter evacuation

   • Liaise with our Kathmandu office and your insurance provider

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🧗‍♂️ Guide Credentials & Company Commitment

The success and safety of your expedition rely heavily on the competence of the guiding team.

👨‍🏫 Experienced Guides

• All lead guides are certified professionals with extensive experience on Ama Dablam and other 8,000-meter peaks.

• They are trained in:

  • Technical rock and ice climbing

  • Rescue procedures

  • High-altitude medical care

🏢 Professional Operation

• We are a legally registered, government-licensed expedition operator in Nepal.

• We practice responsible tourism, ensuring:

  • Fair wages for all staff

  • Insurance and quality gear for porters and climbing Sherpas

  • Ethical and sustainable practices

🛡️ Safety Record

• Our high safety standard is maintained through:

  • Meticulous logistical planning

  • Acclimatization-focused itineraries

  • Comprehensive support and backup plans

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💪 Physical Fitness & Training Plan

Ama Dablam is a serious technical climb. The accompanying Everest Base Camp trek also demands excellent cardiovascular endurance and leg strength.

🩺 Medical Clearance

• Prior to booking, you should undergo a full medical check-up.

• Ensure your doctor clears you for strenuous physical activity at extreme altitudes.

🏃‍♂️ Cardiovascular Endurance

• Begin training 6–9 months before departure.

• Engage in aerobic exercises 4–5 times per week:

  • Running, cycling, stair climbing, swimming

  • Each session: 1–2 hours of sustained activity

🏋️ Strength Training

• Focus on functional strength for mountain travel.

• Train major muscle groups:

  • Legs & Core: Squats, lunges, step-ups, planks

  • Upper Body: Pull-ups, push-ups, rows, shoulder presses
    (critical for rope work and backpack management)

🎒 Hiking Practice

• Simulate mountain conditions as much as possible.

• Perform weekly hikes (5–8 hrs) with a weighted pack (10–15 kg).

• Prioritize steep, uneven terrain if available.

🧗 Mountaineering Skills

• You must already possess solid:

  • Rock climbing techniques

  • Ice climbing fundamentals

  • Fixed-rope ascent/descent proficiency

If you lack this experience, please complete a technical mountaineering course before joining this expedition.